Paolo Griffa is the chef at the Grand Hotel Royal and Golf in Courmayeur. His menus reflect his playfulness but are based on highly complex presentations
by Elisabetta Kruger – photo by Paolo Picciotto
Paolo Picciotto’s images are a great tribute to the spectacular and cultured cuisine of chef Paolo Griffa who joyfully creates dishes of playful cuisine that engage the guest in the sophisticated game of cooking. Since 2017, Griffa has been the chef at the Grand Hotel Royal and Golf in Courmayeur, where he was immediately awarded a Michelin star.
Class of 1991, you might think he is a young chef with little experience. But in reality, Paolo Griffa has come a very long way. Combal.Zero, Studio in Copenaghen, Piccolo Lago in Mergozzo, Serge Veira in Chaudes-Aigues. Main contests prepared with the highest attention to detail: Bocuse d’Or, S.Pellegrino Young Chef, Premio Birra Moretti Grand Cru.
The collaboration between Paolo Picciotto and Paolo Griffa begins with an Airbag. In the dish, luckily. An unlikely presentation of salad. The hand that throws the stone, but doesn’t hide is Paolo Griffa’s.
His current menu includes a stunning Chawanmushi made of larch dashi and season tubers, black garlic wafer and wild blueberries, morel mushroom caramel and a secret oily plant resin that crystallizes and can be collected and preserved. Chawanmushi is a dish from Japanese traditional cuisine, a hot salty custard with a delicate and creamy texture.
The menu includes spectacular dishes like Flower Power, Tajine paper art, and a cannelloni tribute to Ottavio Missoni. Or the pine-resin lacquered grilled venison with cornmeal mush and winter greens.
And then other dishes like the Pumpkin sfogliatella, goat ricotta with lemon and pumpkin seeds; Celery root cooked in plaster filled with wild boar, sweet potato, dried apricot and mustard leaves; the Onion soup, fontina mousse, black truffle and thyme, and lastly the homage to Missoni – Flower Power – a cannelloni filled with lamb, cowpeas, coriander, celery and apple.
(Paolo Griffa, playful and cultured soul – Barchemagazine.com – May 2023)